This clip is from about 3 years ago. I had gotten frustrated with the crowd and had decided to lineup outside and deep. When a big set came, I let the first wave go by (that’s the smart / safe thing to do — though it took a number of years before I gained that patience). As the second wave began to stand up, I thought to myself, “I have this.” I turned, paddled and then realized that the wave was filling in from the west. With the angle of the wave, it was going to close out across the bowl. I pulled back only to turn around and find that I had paddled myself into the absolute worst position possible — in the impact zone of the bowl — just as the largest wave of the day was rearing up. I paddled as fast as I could at the wave, then dove off my board and swam deep once I saw the wave starting to break.